Grundtner&Söhne: menswear on the banks of the river Salzach.

Austrian men don’t always have it easy when it comes to fashion. In the midst of Lederhosen and ill-fitting discount jeans there seems to be only dim light at the end of the tunnel (in the form of genuinely stylish menswear boutiques). But maybe things just got a little bit better in the opposite sex’s fashion world. And I dare to say that as one of those women, who owns men’s shirts and trousers as part of her regular wardrobe I am trustworthy on that.

 Grundtner & Söhne, the most recent addition to the Austrian menswear scene has chosen the small town Hallein as their ‘experimenting ground’ before they make a potential expansion to Vienna reality. The owner, Lukas is CEO and cleaning ‘lady’ in one:  he manages everythngfrom the compilation of their playlists over the interior design, the online-shop, the to the selection of the labels. His brother, a fashion design student helps with selecting and discovering brands and designers and a third family member models the collection in their online-shop.

The shop is located in a 600 year old building and Lukas has decided to keep some of history’s traces like the ink stains on the floor that stem from the last occupant a stationary shop. The interior is kept deliberately simple, “this is all for men: the interior, the music, the clothes” says Lukas while he shows me around. He means that in classy way, there are no signs of go-go girls or sleazy pin-up posters. It is furnished with flea markets finds and attic-discoveries, all making for a certain “dirt-appeal”, as Lukas coins it himself, which is in sharp contrast to the fine selection of clothes.

The clothes, of course, wouldn’t need such treatment to shine but the low-key interior is also a welcome break from the styled-to-death flagships stores of big designer labels like Armani or Boss. A few of Lukas favourite pieces are a grey merino pullover, a finely knitted pullover from Denmark, a two-sided patterned shirts and quite literally (see picture) fucking great shoes. Hard to image that male fashion freaks wouldn’t fall for that.  But also easy to picture the non-fashion-concerned male finding something he likes. Even if you’re not intending to buy any clothes you could pick up a magazine like the brilliant Monocle or Fantastic Man. Lukas never really had a real target group. The concept of combining classic styles with a few more risqué pieces seems to work well.

Design by GØRL.

“Fucking-great”shoes

If you belong to those readers of this blog, who asked for advice on men’s fashion (and you live in Austria) I warmly recommend popping by sometime.

The essential questions for Grundtner & Söhne

What labels do you stock?

 Mostly a European mix, not so much because we want to show off as eco or fairtrade freaks but to ensure high quality fabrics and manufacturing. We have a few Scandinavian labels, French labels and also an American and soon an English designer. We also sell my brother’s GØRL. He studies fashion design at the university of applied arts in Vienna and we have it produced in an Austrian factory. Last but not least we also have our own label Gruntner&Söhne.

Welche Marken verkauft ihr?

Hauptsächlich europäische Marken, weniger um die grüne Welle zu reiten, als um eine hohe Qualität im Material und in der Herstellung sicherzustellen. Wir haben einige skandinavische Marken, französische und auch einen amerikanischen und englischen Designer. Mein Bruder studiert Modedesign an der Angewandten und wir verkaufen manchmal seine Designs unter dem Hauslabel Gruntner&Söhne oder unter seinem eigenen Label GØRL.

Any tips for men, who struggle to pick out the right clothes for them?

 Start with Basics: a selection of simple shirts look good on anyone and a pair of jeans that is not too loose should be part of everybody’s wardrobe. Take one more extravagant item to give your outfit or wardrobe a personal touch.

 Welche Ratschläge würdest du Männern geben, die sich weniger für Mode interessieren aber trotzdem gut aussehen wollen?

 Fang mit Basics an: eine gute Auswahl an einfachen Hemden ist immer gut und eine Jeans, die nicht zu lose sitzt gehört in jeden Kleiderschrank. Danach kann man mit einem extravaganten Teil dem Outfit eine persönlicher Note verleihen.

Who are the  Söhne (sons), who shop here?

 I don’t really have a ‘target group’ in that sense. My youngest customer was 12 and my oldest 86. The average age is probably between 30 and 40.  Generally, we have more regulars than walk-in customers and there are even some women, who like to buy our bags and shirts.

Wer kauft bei euch?

 Wir haben keine richtige Zielgruppe. Mein jüngster Kunde war 12 und mein ältester 86. Der Durchschnitt ist wahrscheinlich zwischen 30 und 40. Wir haben mehr Stammkunden als Laufkundschaft und wir zählen auch ein paar Frauen, die vor allem unsere Taschen und Hemden kaufen, zu unseren Kunden.

 

How much do I have to fork out to shop at Grunter&Söhne?

Prices depend on the labels. We are not super cheap, because we want to keep a certain quality. According to the international T-shirt index you have to hand over between 20 and 74 for one of our T-shirts.

Wie dick muss mein Geldtascherl sein um bei euch einzukaufen?

 Die Preise unterscheiden sich je nach Marke. Wir sind nicht supe-billig, weil wir einen gewissen Qualitätsstandard einhalten wollen. Nach dem internationalen T-Shirt Index bekommt muss man bei uns zwischen20 und 74 für ein T-shirt auslegen. 

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